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The spirit of Kokoda
Along the Kokoda Trail, one becomes aware of the infinite circle of life: there is evidence of decay, destruction and death; there are also examples of rejuvenation, restoration and renewal.

By A Special Correspondent
The Kokoda Trail between Ower's Corner and Kokoda is currently chock-a-block with many hundreds of Australians, both young and old, men and women.
Some are walking from Ower's Corner to Kokoda, while the others are walking from Kokoda to Ower's Corner.
You only had to be at Jackson's Airport this week to see the hundreds of Australia trekkers who had come for this pilgrimage.
The objective is to culminate with ANZAC Day next Wednesday, April 25, when the traditional Dawn Service will be held at Bomana War Cemetary, hallowed Isurava along the trail, or at Kokoda itself.
It has only been since 2002, the 60th anniversary of the Kokoda Campaign, that it has touched a chord in the hearts of all Australians.
Isurava, which Australian Prime Minister John Howard visited in August 2002 to open the magnificent war memorial, was the site of a significant WW11 battle and now one of the most-sacred sites along the trail.
Kokoda should also touch the hearts of many Papua New Guineans as it also played an important role in our development, but alas, many of our young people know little to nothing about it.
Our very own "Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels" played a pivotal role on the trail and we - like Australians - should ensure that their contributions are never forgotten.
Since first walking the trail in 2003, I have taken a strong interest in it, and have been closely following developments there.
For Australians, why Kokoda?
The transformation of Gallipoli to accommodate the increasing number of young Australians who make their pilgrimage to the shores of Anzac Cove each year is now complete.
Attention is now being focussed on Kokoda.
The 60th anniversary of the Kokoda campaign on Anzac Day 2002 focussed nationwide Australian attention on the Kokoda Trail.
As a result young Australians became aware of its significance and began to include it on their adventure travel itineraries.
The pilgrimage to Kokoda differs from Gallipoli.
Some will want to trek across it whilst others would want to drive from Port Moresby to the beginning of the Trail at Ower's Corner.
It is both a commemorative and educative experience for them.
Ower's Corner provides a majestic view over the Owen Stanley Ranges and is ideally suited as a future location for an annual Anzac Dawn Service.
The day could conclude with a beating of the retreat at Bomana War Cemetery.
The Japanese entered the Pacific War on December 7, 1941, and swept unchecked through Asia and the Pacific.
They were well trained, battle hardened, fanatical, and superior in manpower, weapons and equipment.
On July 27, 1942, a superior Japanese force launched an attack on a small band of Australian defenders dug in on the Kokoda plateau.
Their objective was to cross the Owen Stanley Range and capture the strategic town of Port Moresby.
The Australian Diggers were young, inexperienced, outnumbered and outgunned.
During the ensuing three months, the Australians fought against overwhelming odds and forced the Japanese to contest every inch of the rugged and treacherous Kokoda Trail as they advanced towards their objective of Port Moresby.
The first Victoria Cross won on Australian soil was posthumously awarded to Private Bruce Kingsbury of the 2/14th Battalion during the battle for Isurava.
The Australians rallied at the last ridgeline, a mere 40 kilometres from Port Moresby.
The Japanese had stretched their resources to the limit in attempting to annihilate the Australians and were ordered to conduct a fighting withdrawal to the beachheads of Buna and Gona on the northern coast of Papua New Guinea.
The Australians pursued the Japanese with great courage and vigour and re-occupied the village of Kokoda on 2 November 1942.
Those who have trekked across the Kokoda Track know what an impossible task this would have been against the overwhelming odds faced by our Diggers.
In my own experience, exhilaration filled my heart as I felt what Sir Edmund Hillary must have felt 50 years ago when he was the first to climb Mount Everest.
And the words of that great man, which I had read time and again in my build - up towards walking the Kokoda Trail, reverberated through my whole being:" It is not the mountains we conquer, but ourselves."
The sense of achievement, of having overcome adversity after being through the most - excruciating physical pain in my life, overwhelmed me.
Fears about the trek, hopes about reaching the end of the journey, at first seemed insurmountable; but they were met and conquered.
It brought out of me hidden physical and mental reserves that I never knew I had!
Walking the Kokoda Trail made me envision the journey of life itself beginning with one small step, followed by another and another, until somehow, with time, you ultimately reach the pinnacle by taking it step after painful step.
And I now know that although there will be many more mountains to climb and rivers to cross in my life, I will be stronger because of "the spirit of Kokoda".
Kokoda has made me realise many things.
I now better appreciate the rugged and heartbreaking terrain the Australians, the "Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels", and the Japanese encountered during those dark days of WW11.
The hardships the forgotten Orokaiva and Koiari people who live on the mountains, ridges, and gullies of the Owen Stanley Ranges endure daily bring tears to your eyes.
The smiling, happy faces of children as they called out a "hello" to visitors - amidst these abject hardships - bring so much joy to your heart.
You find peace and beauty in nature, with answers to troubling questions being found on the wind, in the trees, in the song of birds, in the pure voice of an ever - flowing mountain stream splashing over the rocks, and in the stillness of the forest.
Being along the Kokoda Trail, one becomes aware of the infinite circle of life: there is evidence of decay, destruction and death; there are also examples of rejuvenation, restoration and renewal.
But most of all, it has shown me that the human spirit can triumph over adversity.