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A wealth of biodiversity

By LLOYD JONES, Papua New Guinea Correspondent
BENSBACH, Papua New Guinea, Oct 3 AAP - In the dark of night, men with knives and torches stalk through the reeds to jump and stab wild deer and wallabies in Papua New Guinea's southern wetlands.
These bushmeat hunters are from villages on the Bensbach River which snakes its way through vast wetlands, savannahs and monsoon forests that spread across the border into Indonesian Papua.
This is the TransFly region, a 10 million hectare zone straddling the mighty Fly River and stretching south to the coast only kilometres from Australian islands in the Torres Strait.
The pristine wildlife habitats here are hardly known to the outside world but could one day draw thousands of tourists and match the great protected areas of Australia's Kakadu or Africa's Okavango.
Millions of birds frequent the wetlands, including pelicans, ibis, egrets, herons, geese, ducks and waders which fly from Australia each year to spend the southern winter in these rich feeding grounds.
They share this vast lowland region of big skies and long views with farmers, fishermen and hunters.
Within large sections of this sparsely-peopled domain, villagers have taken on the role of wildlife managers backed by the conservation organisation WWF.
Renowned American scientist Jared Diamond has just launched 710,000 hectares of new Wildlife Management Areas in the TransFly to add to the existing Tonda area.
At Wando village on the Bensbach, the University of California professor from Los Angeles is adorned with a cassowary-feather head dress then plants a commemorative coconut palm the villagers name Diamond.
He tells hundreds of tribes people that their wildlife protection role is crucial for millions of migrant birds from Australia, Asia and Europe.
The conservation biologist, geographer and ornithologist says Australia has to wake up to the importance of the region to millions of overwintering Australian bird migrants.
He urges Australia to spend tens of millions of dollars to help conserve wildlife habitats in the TransFly and fund migration studies using transmitters attached to birds.
Diamond, who won the Pulitzer Prize for his book Guns, Germs and Steel, says Australian conservationists are developing commendable programs to protect waterbird habitats in Australia.
"But there is no way Australian birds will be safe unless they are also protected here in Papua New Guinea because they spend nearly half of their time here.
TransFly landowners have taken on the task of conserving wildlife habitats while maintaining sustainable farming, fishing and hunting.
At Wando, in front of a house walled and roofed with paperbark, wildlife management committee member Siwai Nema says his people want more tourism.
"We want to see a lot of people come to see the place and the wildlife but we want to do it in a sustainable way and not disturb the area."
Nema says he hopes the PNG government or WWF can help his people set up small tourism, fishing or bushmeat businesses.
When rainfall is good, introduced Rusa deer thrive in the TransFly and are hunted by the locals and targeted by Indonesian poachers.
Nema says sometimes his people and the poachers clash and the intruders' boats and motorcycles are seized.
We are fearing that the two governments might come to a clash if our sides fight on these things."
Nema wants the government to ensure more regular patrols of the border to stop incursions.
In the TransFly with Diamond is expert bird guide David Bishop who has made about 20 trips to the region and compiled bird reports for WWF.
He's noticed a huge increase in the number of deer on the PNG side but says it's unclear what impact they'll have on the wetlands.
It's also unclear whether they seek refuge in PNG from intense hunting in Indonesia where deer, wallaby and cassowary numbers have plunged, Bishop says.
On the PNG side the impact of people is minimal and bird populations appear very healthy.
Bishop cites the large numbers of Brolgas and other migrant waterbirds and the healthy populations of sea eagles and Great-Billed Herons.
"Obviously there's plenty of fish and there's no pollution."
The TransFly supports up to 99 per cent of the world population of Australian Pratincoles, Bishop says.
Australia is putting up big money to survey its wetlands in October 2008 but isn't including southern New Guinea, he says.
"It means they're going to lose a very key part of the equation.
"It would give them a solid baseline for understanding the distribution of wetland birds."
Australian migrant birds in the TransFly also include kingfishers, dollarbirds, bee-eaters and swallows.
The region has its own unique species in the Spangled Kookaburra and Fly River Grassbird along with the Bronze Quoll, a marsupial cat recently found to be the same species as quolls in south-western Australia.
Goannas sun themselves on the banks of the Bensbach while cuscus, bandicoots, flying possums and bush rats roam the woodlands at night and crocodiles patrol the waterways.
WWF sees great potential in ecotourism to provide income for landowners and incentives for them to preserve habitats.
Paul Chatterton, WWF's conservation director in PNG, says it's hoped the Wildlife Management Areas will be extended and form part of a two million hectare cross-border conservation area with the Wasur National Park in Indonesian Papua.
"It creates an enormous cross-border zone with huge tourism potential and it could be a source of cooperation between the two countries."
WWF wants other organisations to help establish "what will be one of the world's great protection areas in line with Kakadu and the Serengeti", Chatterton says.
WWF officers have been in the TransFly for ten years helping communities protect wildlife habitats and tackle such issues as weed invasion, poaching, fires and wild dogs.
They encourage villagers to change slash and burn gardening habits and hunting practices to preserve forest habitats and wildlife.
Local wildlife committees have imposed limits on deer kills because the new method of stalking with knives and torches can kill 10 or more deer a night, threatening the ongoing supply of bushmeat.
WWF TransFly project manager Enoch Ontiri, from Kenya, says cassowary numbers have dropped dramatically in recent years because of hunting, egg collecting and Christianity.
The bird has been a revered totem in some communities, which set aside sacred cassowary areas where hunting, gardening or collecting firewood was banned, he says.
The spread of Christianity led to a breakdown of the sacred areas, which were cassowary havens, Ontiri says.
The answer is for landowners to declare protected areas for conservation reasons so numbers will increase, he says.
WWF believes the future of TransFly wildlife depends on the success of the tribespeople in managing their wildlife habitats.
Diamond says many conservation efforts around the world are focused on saving the "last scraps of large, wrecked ecosystems".
"In New Guinea, we're not saving the last scraps, we're saving the large intact ecosystems. That's something that makes me relatively hopeful."
But the TransFly faces environmental threats from logging of the monsoon forests, the spread of rice growing into the grasslands and invading species of fish and weeds.
WWF conservationists working with the people of the marshes have planted the seeds of a vast cross-border conservation area protected from destructive development and supporting thriving wildlife populations drawing thousands of tourists a year.
Matching the growth of those seeds to fruition will be a coconut palm called Diamond planted in the big sky country.
AAP
 

       
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