Simundo villagers on the upper
reaches of the Keram River - a tributary of the mighty Sepik
River - are reviving an age old traditional marriage ritual
to attract tourists to their area. COLIN TAIMBARI writes.
Tucked away on either side of the
banks on the upper reaches of the Keram River, a tributary
of the mighty Sepik River, is Simando village.
For the locals nothing much has changed over the years. For
the most part, the river is their source of life. It
provides them drinking water, food and access to the outside
world. For generations their customs and traditions, myths
and legends have been built around this important source -
the Keram River.
Today, they have also become mere observers watching banana
boats and motorized dugout canoes loaded with cargo headed
further up the river where there are reports of a "gold
rush" of sorts with alluvial miners seeking to make a
fortune by panning for gold at the base of far away
mountains where the Keram River begins its journey. Like
many remote areas of Papua New Guinea, their problems are
further impounded by the lack of basic government services.
Angoram, the district headquarters is some two hours by
banana boat down river and onto the Sepik River but then
again, one has to complete the three hour journey by road to
Wewak if you really need better goods and services.
But all it seems is not lost for the people of Simando, when
all else has failed to fuel any economic activities in their
area, they are now leaning towards tourism as a vehicle to
at least bring some form of development to their area. In so
doing, they have turned to their age old cultures and
traditions as a lure for tourists to visit their area.
Local village councilor Adam Wangi first dreamt the idea of
hosting a mini-cultural show four years ago but the show has
never really taken off. The villagers never really give up
hope though and recently met up with local Sepik River
tourism operator Alois Mateos. Mateos who runs mostly river
tours up the Sepik in Ambunti offered to help market the
show for Wangi and his people. For Wangi and his people,
Mateos was a God sent - the answer to their prayers.
"We struggled for the last three years to promote our show
but since we've established contact with Alois, we are now
confident we can bring tourists to our village," said Wangi.
Given his vast experience is hosting tourists, Mateos
realized that in order to attract tourists all the way to
Simando, there had to be a "pull factor" some special
attraction that was unique to that area only.
Mateos said: "The Sepik region and its arts and artifacts
are already a major attraction but for tourists to make that
extra mile to Simando, we had to come up with something
special." So following hours of planning and brainstorming,
the idea of reviving an age old sacred and traditional
marriage ceremony was given birth to as the main attraction
of the Keram mini-cultural show.
So after many years of absence, the first traditional
marriage ceremony of the Keram people was re-enacted at the
4th Keram mini-cultural show in June this year. Mateos was
invited as the official guest with me representing the TPA -
our aim was to assess whether with the inclusion of the
traditional marriage ceremony, the show had the potential to
lure curious tourists from far away lands.
There is an air on anticipation on the morning of the show
as villagers rise early for the big day ahead. Several
traditional dance groups from nearby villages have arrived
the night before so the show is looking good already.
However, it's in the middle of the campaign period and the
roar of helicopter engines ring above the tops of the sago
palms as local MP Arthur Somare makes a quick stop to
witness a bit of the show while commending Wangi and his
committee for organizing the show. The marriage ceremony is
brought forward slightly for the sake of the Member and
begins with the procession of Canoes loaded traditionally
dressed clans men and women of the bride delivering him to
the main arena for the exchange of vows with the groom.
Certain rituals are performed along the way as the bride
makes his way to the ceremonial ground. The groom is kept
hidden from the public eye in an enclosed section at one end
of the ground until bridge is given the all clear the cross
an imaginary line and call her out for marriage. All the
while, the singing and dancing and chants continue. The
groom finally emerges from her hamlet and is taken to the
centre of the arena where traditional marriage vows are
exchanged under the watchful eyes of an elderly woman
dressed and painted for the part with a very old looking
bilum hanging loosely from her head. Following the exchange
of vows, the bride then takes the groom and exits the arena.
Mateos, a strong believer of maintaining old customs and
traditions, is impressed with what he has witnessed. "We
must always strive to maintain our traditions and cultures,"
he tells the crowd, "Not only for tourists but for our
future generations. We may be wearing the white man's
clothes but it's what underneath that's important to us and
we can only maintain our identity by maintaining our
traditional customs."
Mateos says if marketed properly, we could not only have
tourists but make also it a popular attraction local
residents of Angoram and Wewak, particularly school
children. The traditional marriage ceremony and the Keram
mini-cultural show are now slated for June 8, 2008. Mateos
says the Keram show is being sold as a whole package which
will compliment the Wapi Sagi or traditional yam ceremony in
Maprik on June 9 and ending with the now popular Sepik Iron
Man in Wewak on June 2008. "The tourist or visitor here will
get to have a fulfilling experience covering all the events
in the one weekend," said Mateos. At last the people of
Simando have something to look forward to now.
For more info email info@pngtourism.org.pg web
www.pngtourism.org.pg
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