Just a touch of Paradise

By APA KAGL
THE new day inevitably dawned without a restful night.
My host Newton and I walked around the neighborhood and I was introduced to Paps John Dau who is a popular young leader there. I instantly noticed his enthusiastic and likeable character.
Paps Dau quickly offered me betelnuts which I graciously took out of respect. His offer of daka and lime were met with a polite refusal and he quickly realized that I was a non-chewer.
Not one to be outdone he quickly sent a couple of boys to get me soft drinks and something to eat.
During my stay in Wewak, Paps Dau would regularly call and ask Newton and I to go over to his place for a chat on various subjects. His, and Newton’s fame around the town soon meant that I too was becoming well known around town.
I was initially surprised that business around town closed for the day at around 3pm to allow for their premises to be cleaned.
Places such as the markets are always left sparkling clean at the close of business. Whilst in Wewak, I had the fortune to visit many places around the province. It was while visiting the west coast villages of Vokinara I, Vokinara II and Vokinara III that I had a bigger glimpse into the customs and hausman rituals of the Sepik. Moving further by road, we arrived at the beautiful town of Aitape, nestled between thick jungle and beautiful beaches.
Tumleo Island was also a place where I set foot. This was where the first Catholic missionaries landed on the shore of Papua New Guinea.
While in Aitape I also visited areas where the 1998 tsunami, one of the worst natural disaster in PNG’s history, hit.
More than 2000 people died and more than a thousand were left homeless and injured. My stay in Aitape had to be cut short because we had to be back in Wewak for more cultural rituals.
In many instances on my visits to the tribal hausman or exclusive men’s houses the discussion would always stray to the topic of politics.
The Sepik people have long remained loyal to the Father of the Nation, and one of their own, Grand Chief Sir Michael Somare for a record-breaking 49 years starting in 1968.
My days in East Sepik were coming to a close but my last wish was that I might pay a courtesy visit to the Grand Chief.
It wasn’t difficult trying to make an appointment to pay him a visit. Sir Michael remembered Newton and I from our student days at UPNG where we previously met.
We met outside on the lawn outside his house on a fine Sepik afternoon.
“Oh my sons from Uni,…how are you boys?” We shook hands and hugged.
Newton announced to him how I had wanted to meet him again to say thank you for all he has done for the nation. He looked at me and smiled as I broke into salutation for the sacrifices and bold stances that he had made starting as the First Chief Minister of Papua New Guinea at Independence to this year when he is willingly giving up a political career for some peace at home with his family.
He responded to my thanksgiving and went on to share with us the experiences he had with Simbus (my wantoks) during his time in politics. He told us about how Independence eventually came about in 1975.
One thing that truly stood out from our meeting was the fact that Sir Michael knew almost every place in PNG.
I was astounded that he could rattle off names of major clans and prominent tribal chiefs in my province of Chimbu. It was truly an amazing afternoon that Newton and I spent with this humble leader whose name will always be is synonymous with Independence in PNG.
Unfortunately, the dusk fell, so we returned to our hausboi.
Later that evening, I couldn’t help go over our visit to Sir Michael. Speaking with him at his beloved residence in Wewak is something I will never forget for as long as I live.
I’ll also remember my trip to East Sepik. The people are friendly and open. Food is abundantly plentiful. The beaches are dazzling white and spotless. If there’s a place I will call my home away from home, it has to be Wewak.
PS country is paradise and all I can say is, I once touched paradise.