Flying out of Ononge with a sad heart

TREKKING

FINALLY we arrived at Homalle, another village of the Fanima tribe.
The cold and high altitude of the place with much higher mountain peaks, deep ravines reminded me of far-flung and most outback setting in my own Jiwaka province, in either Jimi or Kambia.
What was even more reassuring in taking the place as more or less as another landscape of highlands is when l discovered that all the trees growing in the forest, mosses, ferns, wild flowers, the pandanus and every plant and the virgin chilling creeks, streams and crystal rivers flowing down all appeared and tasted to be exactly the same as those found and enjoyed in the highlands of PNG.
Well, this was indeed the highlands part of Central that is at times known as the ‘Karuka land’ (pandanus land). In fact the Goilalas’ rugby league team is called the Karukas.
What fascinated me most was the pandanus trees which were unlike the species growing in the highlands because those growing over there in that part of Central’s high altitude are gigantic and their fruit and the root system are also giant sized. They looked much higher and bigger than the highlands variety.
By the way, a week’s stay at Homalle was indeed very much enjoyable and pleasing with the hospitality of my two Fanima friends’ families.
I was enjoying their different garden produce like giant kaukau, taro, yam, oranges, melon, sugar cane, cabbages, pumpkin and other fresh garden food stuff. At dawn each day, I walked out of the host family’s pandanus thatched hut from up the Mt Wasa to take in the view around and about over the deep gullies, ravines and looking into distant mountains  with wonder and a sinking heart and sadness.
When l looked to the southerly direction, in the east lay Kurama Community School which was more than five kilometers away with the home of the Silima tribe located further east sharing the border with the Northern. The nearby Kambise Community School and home village of Goilala MP aWilliam Samb was in the north sitting atop a peak overlooking Ononge which is a small station founded by pioneer Catholic priest the late Fr Jules Dubuy who came to the area in the 1940s. From the distance view at the peak of Kambise, Ononge was located in north-easterly direction with its primary school and the Ononge airstrip.

Part 2 of freelancer PAUL MINGA’S adventure in the Goilala mountains of Central

In the far west lay the city of Port Moresby. It was sad that the land I was standing on and its human inhabitants were left hidden behind the blue mountain ranges from Port Moresby. My heart sank each time l took in the view over and again at the landscape in the far distance and places nearby.
I questioned the Creator why there was hardly any valley or flat land in this part of the world but just peaks and gullies all around. Recalling the seven days and nights we braved the arduous trekking to Homalle, I wondered how was l going to make a return trip to Port Moresby after the sightseeing tour of the Fanima land.
I felt lost at time in wondering if I would ever make it back back to Port Moresby. I reflected of a week-long tiring steep climbs through many high mountain peaks and gullies that were known for several air crashes of light aircraft and choppers. I didn’t have the appetite to trek back. Air travel as the only option available. From Homalle I took distant view towards Kabise and Ononge in the north.
It was indeed a breathtaking view of the two places of the Fanimas but  other times l turned in that direction upon hearing the roar of a chopper or light plane flying in from Port Moresby to deliver passengers and cargoes for Ononge and Kabise.
I felt sad and worried when I realised the K60 I had placed inside my note pad was not enough to pay for my airfares if l decided to get on a chopper for Port Moresby. From what l heard from the locals it cost more than K500 for air travel for a passenger between Port Moresby and Ononge.
But another good news. I was told that a chopper and the Air Sanga aircraft that operated under charter arrangements by the office of Goilala MP and Minister for Transport and infrastructure. The chartered chopper and aircraft usually airlift free cargo and passengers to and from Port Moresby sounded as pleasing news to my ears. But what added more misery and worry was the non-existence of the reception of mobile telephone communication.

I had a thought of contacting my boss in Port Moresby so he could arrange for my air travel out of Ononge but due to no signal of mobile reception all hope was gone and I was left stuck and stranded. After about a week, l asked my two friends if they could escort me over to Ononge so I could try and get on a return charter flight for free if it were be possible as much as it was talked about.
However, when l showed signs of sadness and loneliness on my face and was in a desperate mood and eager to return to Port Moresby, on July 28, 2020 my two friends escorted me out of Homalle and we walked down the deep galley to a riverside hut near the Savor River for the night.
The next day we decided to rest again a second night at the riverside hut. The following day we walked uphill and spent another two days and two nights at Kabise village. After that we decided to walk further on aiming our final destination as Ononge. We walked to Hudava River from Kabise village and climbed up another final steep peak for several hours and at last reached Ononge at nightfall.
Several days were spent at Ononge as l hope for a charter flight the locals assured me as free flight. During my stay at Ononge, l realised that Snax and Em Nau biscuits were sold at K2 and K3 for a packet while a Maggie cube flavor was sold at K1. I really feel wanted a taste of something from the city after more than a week. With my only K60 still in my possession, over a few days stay at Ononge about K20 had gone biscuits and another K10 was paid to a man who usually organises passengers getting onboard charter flights out of Ononge.
I felt assured when this fellow said, “Don’t worry I’ll make sure you get onboard.” The K10 I offered him was for him to buy cigarette or betel nut to enjoy so he can do me that favour. For a police reservist whose job was to provide security at the airstrip l bought a packet of biscuits and pleaded with him to use his authority to liaise with his colleagues to get me on board when the chopper or plane arrived.
Hope at last arrived with what had been anticipated over the last few days with the landing of an Air Sanga aircraft by Captain Michael, an expatriate pilot and his national co-pilot who was spoke ling a highlander.
A crowd of anxious onlookers were trying to get a glimpse of the landing craft while those of us desperate in trying to get on a free flight pushed, hassled and scuffled with security personnel through the airstrip makeshift gate. I managed to force myself through the gate because the security personnel were not as strict and aggressive.
After I made my way into gate l felt relieved that l made it at last but was wondering if l would be allowed to gain entry of the plane. As soon as passengers disembarked and cargo was offloaded, few young men rushed up the plane without being stopped by anybody. I saw they went through without the usual screening process and the ticking of a manifest list. That was indeed a good sign so l followed the others and made my way into the aircraft taking up a front seat near the cockpit. But l didn’t felt at ease as my heart was pounding and beating rapidly inside me. I wished no one would come around asking for a plane ticket or a K500 airfare.
But after a few minutes a young man who was a passenger traveling in from Port Moresby using the opportunity of charter flight asked us for the airfares. I figured out that he was only an opportunist trying to his make some money but since the local young men on board were all freaked out, they took out whatever amount they had in possession and I did the same and took out my last K35 and we all handed over the money to the opportunist who claimed to be the airline agent inside the aircraft.
Anyway, as the plane engine started and engine heated up the unauthorised person collecting fares from us skipped a few others and came out of the plane doorway. I was angry with the cunning young man when a boy l know was a student attending school in the city gave away everything that was given to him by his poor parents.
Finally Captain Michael and his co-pilot taxied the aircraft along Ononge airstrip runway and lifted off into the air for Port Moresby’s Jacksons Airport. As we were airborne I looked out and saw through the clear blue sky sighting mountain peaks and deep gullies below that l walked in enduring hunger, thirst and pains more than a week ago. I wondered why Ononge, Kambise, Kurama, Homalle and Enande villages of the Fanima tribe were so close yet seemed too far away from Port Moresby.
I further questioned why other countries like China, United States, Australia, Japan, Philippines and others kept on focusing their attention and spending millions of kina on already developed towns and cities rather than building roads to connect outback places in the country like this par part of Central for the locals to access goods and services.
Having seen the difficult landscape and struggles of people in this part of the country, the flight out of Ononge was indeed heart-breaking.
Whenever you get to Ononge you will discover for yourself how it is like and feel for the environment and the people out there.
I would be more than happy if a donor country put its hand up save people in these parts of PNG.
The people of Ononge and their neigbhours over in Northern who live in such mountain communities scattered across the Owen Stanley Ranges share the same plight.