Forgotten story of But

Weekender
HISTORY

By ZEDAIAH KANAU
JIMMY Kannibau grew up at a time when many societies in Papua New Guinea were still licking their wounds from the aftermath of World War 2.
As a boy growing up, he heard tales from his late parents about the pre-war tribulations and witnessed first-hand a forgotten post-war relic that embodied a part of the history of the Japanese occupation in a tiny village in East Sepik.
Jimmy’s parents are now gone but their memories live on through their experiences of that hostile period which Jimmy was fortunate enough to have been told about as a child growing up and later revisit those experiences through an unlikely friend.
When WW2 began in 1942, the imperial Japanese forces were sweeping across South East Asia and New Guinea was no exception from the incursion. The Japanese military strategic plan was to establish a forward position in Port Moresby as a possible launching pad for an invasion of Australia.

Jimmy Kannibau (middle) and his two nephews at But bay last year.

Jimmy’s village But (pronounced boot) is located along the west coast from Wewak in East Sepik, 65km from Wewak town and 7km from Dagua Catholic Mission, along the Wewak-Aitape coastal highway.
The village is nestled along the sandy But Bay, once known to shelter and harbour big Spanish ships that sailed the seas on discovery and bounty hunting expeditions during the 15th to 18th centuries. One tall ship arrived and sailed from But Bay to Sydney Harbour, with one of Jimmy’s late uncles, Jacob Kaumas on board.
During that time, the Japanese military planners became aware of the strategic location of But Bay.
Jimmy takes up the rest of the story.
On a fine tranquil morning in 1943, as huge military airplanes flew over But Village dropping leaflets from midair as my mother, Barbara Gelegian Auinimy explained in her final years of an advanced age. The roar of these aircraft was deafening as well terrifying to these simple fishermen, hunters and gatherers. Terrified and in awe, they ran in different directions.
Amid all the confusion and panic, Society of Divine Word (SVD) missionaries Fr Jacob and Br Emmanuel (both Germans) at the But Catholic Mission station, located on a small hill, overlooking the bay, picked up leaflets convincing themselves that the Japanese forces were coming.
These brave clergymen were able to gather the villagers before sunset and explain to everyone that the leaflets were from the imperial Japanese military stating that the Japanese were going to come.
A few villagers decided to walk into the thick forest to hide whilst others decided to stay back like my mother in her very young age, along with her parents in the village.
A few days later, as my mother with her parents and the remaining villagers were busily doing their daily chores, the clouds began darkening as they turned and looked towards the islands of Tarawai, Wallis and Kairiru on the horizon.
This was a terrifying sight of many metal ships as well as military planes coming towards the beach. In great fear, my mother stood trembling. The color of the ocean also turned black with multitudes of soldiers swimming, others on rafts and small landing crafts with men plus equipment steadily moving ashore.
She turned around running towards her parents. Panic stricken as they all congregated around near their huts.
My mother could not count the great number of men coming ashore storming the beach head. They swept through with immense precession taking over the Catholic mission station and village.
These army men then gathered all the villagers including my mother along with the clergymen and established martial law.
After orders under martial law were imposed, Japanese military engineers carried out a quick geographical survey on the terrain.
Once this was done, they constructed a huge airfield, known as the But West Airfield, a wharf, automobile workshops as well as tunnels that catered for an administration post and aeroplane hangars, with vehicle parking areas that sheltered both men and equipment from air raids.
They worked tirelessly during the day and at night with bright flood lights.
During the Japanese occupation, my mother with other villagers gathered fruits as well as vegetables for them. Their attitude soon changed and took a turn for the worse. They committed many war crimes.
Afraid to rebel, the villagers lived in fear, praying that this would end one day. Others fled like the ones before them. They foraged the thick forest for food as well as sanctuary. A few died of starvation while others were persecuted by the Japanese.

Jimmy’s wife, Rebita, son Ryan, and late cousin Otto Manhus in But village last year.

Seeing what was happening, Fr Jacob and Br Emmanuel protested. Sadly, both men were innocently executed and buried in unmarked graves. Their actions were viewed as rebellious.
Moreover, this was a message to all that anyone who as much as criticised their governance would meet the same fate.
When the war and Japanese occupation ended in 1945, normalcy was restored.
As for my mother, she was around to become a woman marring Philip Kannibau at around 16 years of age, through a traditionally arranged marriage.
They bore my siblings, Michael Nimiebe Talakam, Rita Ruas, Margaret Naimen, Agnes Taibunal and Hubert Bouai Kannibau.
For many years they lived in Rabaul where my father worked in plantations and as a mangi masta (domestic servant) for the owner of New Britain Taxi, at Kuragaga at the foot of Namanula Hill.
When they returned home to But my father was appointed village councilor, along with Samuel Donigi of Lowan village, and Ailaban of Kauk village, representing our villages at the Wewak-But Council in Wewak.
Living in harmony, my parents were given a surprise visit by the widow of a Japanese army captain Kamei Saiyo. She, after countless searches, found out that her husband alongside his men had landed on But during the war. After establishing contact as well as explaining her situation, she became a regular visitor to our village and home.
My sister Agnes can still recall their friendly faces, their unfamiliar Japanese clothes, their pajamas, and footwear at that time. She also remembers and laughs out loudly, about us trying out the now popular noodles for the first time, thinking they were boiled worms, from the earth.
My sister, was the favorite of Kamei, spending nights in Kamei’s mosquito net. About to return to Japan, Kamei asked my father’s permission to take my sister with them to Japan. My father heard, but did not reply; I can imagine, what was going on through his head.
A song was also composed and sung by our village youths, the lyrics are about the two Japanese friends (Kamei and Ikeida) of But village.
In 1972, I was in grade three, when the monument which was engraved in Nara City, Osaka, Japan and shipped to Papua New Guinea.
Kamei and a lady called Ikeida accompanied the memorial on to But where it was erected at the beach front commemorating Captain Kamei, his commanding officers and all the men who had served under their command.
Also commemorated are the allied soldiers who fought and died there too. The erection of this monument was sanctioned under close scrutiny by my father who maintained it, until his passing in 1973.