History alive and well in ENB

APART from rusted hulks of tanks and planes from World War II that lie scattered on the lawns of the Kokopo War Museum, the ravages of the war on East New Britain are now covered by lush vegetation.
But on closer scrutiny and inquiry, it is not too hard to figure out that the island is still steeped in rich history of the war.
On Burma road, running up to the Rabaul Observatory, many openings of war tunnels dug by the invading Japanese into the chalky cliff sides are plainly visible.
And on the new seaside road to Rabaul town, local tour guides can point out subterranean tunnels built and used by the Japanese to dock their submarines.
The tunnels are all intact and can easily withstand another couple of decades.
If you are not too careful, you could totally miss the rust-eroded mounted anti-aircraft machine guns and other war memorabilia that lie scattered along the coastline.
Many are distorted from the long years of exposure to the salty ocean air but they stand faithfully pointing out to sea as if anticipating another ship or aircraft to come swooping in over the horizon.
Another recent devastation but of natural origin is the ash-buried Rabaul town, once considered the ‘pearl of the Pacific’.
Over the weekend, it was a sobering experience driving through what is left of the town and down to the once bustling Simpson Harbour, just under the shadow of the smoking
Mt Tavurvur.
The contrast in the environment of natural and man-made is startling. The closer you get to the natural harbour the devastation of the 2004 Mt Vulcan explosion becomes apparent. From lush green vegetation, you suddenly arrive in an area continuing to be denuded of vegetation and where roads are unsealed.
There is a pervading sense of tragedy, loss and the death of a once bustling and famous town, amplified by the sad, defeated look of the Rabaul Hotel and many other
landmark structures.
But elsewhere, East New Britain is a silent achiever. It boasts an infrastructure base that is extensive and comprehensive.
It has a ring road around the island and many other interlinking roads crisscrossing the island, all smoothly sealed and maintained regularly.
It is a province raring to meet the demands of the 21st century in terms of technology and know-how, with many technical institutions such as the Vudal School of Natural Sciences and other  well known schools scattered throughout.
 the island.
Comparatively, it defeats every other province in the country and its push for autonomy can be understood from that perspective.