Laukanu’s allure

By MALUM NALU
IT’S about 4pm on Saturday, Dec 17, 2016, when our dinghy enters the turquoise waters of the little bay leading into beautiful Laukanu village, Salamaua, Morobe.
And although I hadn’t been here to my mum’s seaside village for the last 18 years, having been in Goroka and Port Moresby all these years, it’s like arriving at a place I’d never quite left.
Memories of happy childhood days in the 1970s and 1980s frolicking in the sea, diving, snorkelling, fishing and paddling in dugout canoes, and going gardening with the aunts and uncles in the hills overlooking, come to mind.
My daughter Moasing (mum’s namesake), who’s travelled with me all the way from Port Moresby to attend the opening of our new Lutheran Church building the next day, brightens up and tells me, “dad, you never told me we had such a beautiful village”.
We’d taken a relaxing cruise from Lae on my uncle, Lot Gedisa Zauya’s 40 hp dinghy, Ranu Mero (Water Boy in Motu) which is aptly named because he’s general manager-technical with Eda Ranu in Port Moresby and is the man charged with keeping our water supply going in the city.
We’d stopped first at world-famous Salamaua Point, now the site of a thriving market and business center to cater for the multi-million betel nut trade between Popondetta and Lae, for a breather and a bite to eat.
We then rounded the point and onto the peninsula, where the oncefamous town of gold used to be, and where now expatriates from Lae have built lovely beach homes.
Our dinghy went past Logui village, the murky brown waters of the Francisco River (where the Black Cat Trail to Wau begins), the village of Nuknuk, and we are on our way to Laukanu.
We pass unspoiled coastline dotted with coral reefs, coconut palms and forests – such natural splendour.
We pass Dot Island, a favorite picnic spot which is fast becoming a victim of rising sea levels, as we make our way into Laukanu.
Our first stop is Sawet, where the old Lutheran mission sawmill used to stand, and where my uncle Nasa, younger brother of mum, now lives with his family.
It is a favourite weekend getaway for expatriate residents of Lae, who have also built beach houses there.
From Sawet, we go across the bay to the village, where preparations are well underway for the church opening.
Food is being prepared and singsing groups are rehearsing.
Hugs and handshakes all around from relatives whom I haven’t seen for many years.
Moasing is showered with gifts of bilums from her female relatives.
Lots of garden food, albeit no fish, due to the bad weather.
The sea comes lapping up to front of the house we are staying in, a gentle rythym, so poetic, reminding me of the old man and the sea.
Memories of many years ago come to my mind, of sitting with my grandfather at this very spot where he’d tell us tales of the sea, of the days when the Laukanu – great seafarers – plied the sea to as far as Siassi and Finschhafen in their kasali ( traditional canoes) on trading expeditions and to bring in the Mitic (word of God) to the Salamaua area.
Under a kerosene lamp that night, Nasa and my other uncles, update me on what’s been happening in the village all these years I’ve been away.
“We have a lot of expatriates whocome here every weekend, and who help us a lot, including with our new church building,” he tells me.
“They tell me that they will bring in more people and help to develop this area.”
Nasa says there are many attractions for visitors.
“Visitors come here to dive, snorkel, fish and swim in the beautiful beaches,” he says.
“They also like to jet ski in the bay.
“Children just love this place.”
Despite the influence of town life, the villagers continue to live a simple, subsistence lifestyle.
“We get food from our gardens and fish from our seas,” Nasa says.
“We also sell fish to buyers in the village, who in turn resell in Lae, to get some money.
“We continue to support the work of the church in our village.
“We have a school and an aid post.”
Digicel Foundation has built a double classroom for Lakala Primary School in the village, however, the irony is that the village does not receive a signal and villagers have to
paddle out to sea, near Salamaua, to make phone calls.
The village now has piped water, with a number of toilets, built by Sago Network – an overseas volunteer team of design and development professionals.
“The village is growing and is spreading into areas that were once uninhabited,” Nasa says.
He appeals to Digicel, on behalf of the village, to set up a tower so that they can communicate with family in town and the other Salamaua villages.
“We don’t have a network except for certain hotspots, which are accessible at certain times,” Nasa says.
“We have to paddle or walk up the coast to near Salamaua to make phone calls.
“We have placed a request with Digicel, who said they would set up a tower, but this has not yet happened.”
Sunday, Dec 18, 2016 is a momentous occasion for the people of Laukanu with the opening of their new Lutheran Church building.
Hundreds of people from neighbouring Huon Gulf villages converge on Laukanu for the big day, which is also attended by Morobe Governor Kelly Naru, Huon Gulf MP Ross Seymour, and other guests and dignitaries.
After the opening, I go out with family members on a dinghy to Dot Island, where they swim while I go towards Salamaua to make a phone call and post pictures on Facebook for my family and friends to tell them that we are in paradise.
Early the next morning, hugs and handshakes all around, as we prepare to travel back across the Huon Gulf to Lae.
On that glorious Monday morning, as we pass the scenic coastline, I realise how much I’d miss out on while living in town. I will be back.
PS: Memo to Digicel to set up a tower at Laukanu.